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Physical Address
304 North Cardinal St.
Dorchester Center, MA 02124
Shimano Indexed Shifting Every Shimano equipped multi-gear bicycle includes Shimano S.I.S – Shimano Indexed Shifting. It’s the technology behind that click you hear and feel everytime you shift through your gears. That click captures the light, precise, and consistent shifting bikes equipped with Shimano deliver.
Low clamp (aka top swing) It mounts low down to a round seat tube with a band clamp. As the clamp sits low on the frame (near the bottom bracket junction) and the derailleur itself pivots above it, these are commonly also known as a ‘top swing’ front derailleur.
Shimano groupset hierarchy Shimano 105 is considered Shimano’s first performance groupset, and for many people it is the best option in combining performance, value and longevity. Ultegra is next and is very similar to Dura-Ace in terms of performance, though Dura-Ace is lighter.
Front derailleurs may cause sluggish or inaccurate shifting because (A) the derailleur body is not positioned properly, (B) the derailleur limit screws are not adjusted correctly, (C) the mechanism is dirty or (D) the cable is damaged or improperly tensioned.
An inline barrel adjuster is a small plastic piece found on some Shimano front shift housings (also called casing) where they run beneath the handlebars. By turning the barrel adjuster it’s possible to make the shift cable tighter or looser, which changes how far the derailleur moves when shifted.
In a nutshell, adjust the front derailleur first, then the rear. If the derailers just need minor tweaking (they are basically in adjustment but are not quite right) then you adjust the one that is obviously wrong, check the overall adjustment again, then again adjust what needs adjusting.
E-Type – Some front derailleurs are mounted by clamping them with the bottom bracket cup, those are E-type front derailleurs. Usually an E-type derailleur should only be used if you don’t have any other mounting point above the crank for a clamp or braze-on front derailleur. Cable Pull.
Top swing is where the clamp is low and the cage and linkages pivot out above the clamp, bottom swing is the opposite, the clamp is high and the cage and linkages pivot out from below the clamp, they do look different to each other, if your able to look at an online parts site that has photo’s of the products (like …
A properly adjusted front derailleur should shift the chain between the front chainrings but will not throw the chain off the rings. The basic adjustments for the front derailleur are the height, rotation, limit screws and inner wire tension (index setting).
That’s a barrel adjuster, which is used to tune the derailleur adjustment. Standing behind the bike, the barrel adjuster is turned either counter-clockwise or clockwise in half-turn increments until the shifting hesitation is cured.
Essentially, the Tiagra is a better option if you want a slightly lighter and quicker groupset. If you want a mix of performance and value, opt for the Sora. If you are looking for more performance (without having an 11-speed groupset), opt for the Tiagra.
Tiagra offers excellent value for money but 105 is certainly the better groupset and we’d recommend going for it if your funds allow because of the better brakes, the small weight saving and the upgrade to 11-speed.
Alivio is another small step up in gear hierarchy, it’s still a 9 speed drivetrain this one offers lighter components and reportedly better shifting than Acera and Altus.
The front derailleur should run parallel to the chainrings. If it doesn’t, slacken the bolt fastening it to the frame and rotate it into the right position. When directly above the largest chainring, the outside edge of the derailleur should sit 2-3mm above the teeth of the chainring.
Chain overshoots You need to adjust the high (H) and low (L) limit screws on the derailleur. Viewed from behind the bike, the H screw limits how far the derailleur can move to the right, while the L screw limits how far the derailleur can move to the left.
You need to pull it pretty tight before clamping it to the derailleur. Probably as tight as you can. Usually I find that’s still not tight enough, so I screw the barrel adjuster down all the way before putting the cable in and then open it up until the tension is correct.
Clockwise tightens the barrel adjuster, like a screw, so it threads INTO the shifter and shortens the cable path, loosening the cable. When you install new cables, make sure your barrel adjusters are fully tightened so you have maximum adjustment as your cables lengthen.
Sounds to me like classic symptoms of a dirty drivetrain. If your chain is getting slack on top when you stop pedalling or backpedal, then the problem is in your freehub (or freewheel, whichever you have), a dirty freehub will cause all the problems you’ve listed, even on a brand new bike.
Simply put, the B-Tension screw is there to control the gap between guide pulley (the upper pulley on the derailleur) and the bottom of the cogs.
Your derailleur has two limit screws. For the outer limit, you adjust the H-Screw, so your chain does not fall between the cog and the dropout and for the inner limit, you turn the L-Screw, keeping the chain from derailing towards the spokes.